Alexander McQueen’s new lookbook and movie for Pre-Spring/Summer season 2023 menswear bend the codes of the British label in an exploration of recent silhouettes and tailoring. The model’s forays into the artwork world have grow to be extra frequent, with collections proven throughout Frieze week and their latest S/S23 womenswear assortment referencing the Dutch grasp Hieronymus Bosch. Now, McQueen takes us into the austere, brutalist complicated of London’s Barbican Centre to showcase a group that explores the outdated and new, the uncooked and refined – notions that are central to the model’s spirit.
In Alexander McQueen menswear’s signature nod to kink, harnesses element utilitarian washed denim items which come perforated with silver metallic eyelets, additionally seen tracing the sting of shirting and alongside trouser hems. Nettles are a recurring motif that thread by the gathering, an extra statement of inventive director Sarah Burton’s fascination with nature and therapeutic vegetation, which embroider fastidiously lower trench coats, embellish jackets, and element cotton jersey T-shirts. Graffiti prints are reimagined as vibrant watercolours in a daring subversion of city streetwear, whereas elsewhere a muted color palette is utilized to tailoring, providing a softer, romantic edge to its sharp, exact strains.
On the helm of a intently guarded legacy, Burton’s reinventions of the groundwork left by Lee Alexander McQueen welcome a brand new, pure and exact imaginative and prescient of British fashion. A mere 15-minute stroll away from St Paul’s Cathedral – the place a memorial service for the home’s founder passed off in 2010 – the Barbican Centre speaks to the grounding actuality of London – the house of a delicate, awe-inspiring label that values craft and neighborhood. “Lee was born in London and the town is so integral to what the home is about that it felt like the precise place to be,” Burton instructed AnOther final 12 months. “It has such spirit.”
