Miuccia Prada: “This Assortment Is About Discovering Magnificence In all places”
Lead PictureCourtesy of Prada
Taking care. That was the title Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons gave to their Autumn/Winter 2023 girls’s assortment – and it felt apt. As a result of they’re designers who care, deeply, about each what they create and the influence their creations have on the world; about trend’s position as a mirrored image of a wider cultural dialog, and designers’ jobs to contribute. “For me, the actual that means of what we do is to deliver significance to the on a regular basis,” Miuccia Prada stated. “On a regular basis life deserves lovely issues. As a result of on daily basis of life counts.” It’s unattainable to not join her phrases to the state of the world right this moment: a yr in the past, the debut of Prada’s Autumn/Winter 2022 assortment coincided with the beginnings of the continuing battle in Ukraine.
So, Prada and Simons selected this second to have fun those that take care on the earth – their clothes impressed by uniforms weren’t a fetishisation of on a regular basis clothes, however slightly a celebration of the that means behind the fabric. The nurse’s uniform, as an illustration, is a visible shorthand for therapeutic and wellbeing, an aesthetic reassurance; the neckties and epauletted shirts of safety personnel semaphore security. However Prada heightened all of them, giving them the visible significance of grand ballgowns; the guards’ ties had been even festooned with flowers, as if wreathing their wearers with laurels. “These clothes are vital, the wearers are vital, the motion is vital,” stated Raf Simons earlier than the present. “Those who care are a very powerful.”
Therefore the sense of ceremony that transmogrified each the garments and the present area itself on the grand Deposito of the Fondazione Prada. If you happen to’d watched their menswear present, the jig was up: because the music started to swell, the low-hunkered ceiling of the commercial area started, virtually imperceptibly, to rise round a sequence of orange columns which then seemingly burst into flower, topped with creamy heads of massed white lilies, an architectural reflection of these blooming shirts, whereas others sprouted from sneakers or bubbled out of the floor of purses. Giving flowers, in any case, is a common image of affection, an indication of affection. So too is a marriage – so the gathering opened with marriage ceremony clothes chopped all the way down to their skirts and proposed for very beautiful daywear. Simons relayed that the concept there was to take a chunk embedded with that means and nuance but simply worn as soon as, and to make it a part of everybody’s on a regular basis: “Why ought to this celebration of affection be for under a single day?”
Taking care doesn’t solely suggest love, but in addition safety. Some clothes and skirts had been puffed with down padding, different crafted from leathers and suedes impressed by the protecting aprons of business staff – they shaped armour for the strife of right this moment. You may additionally argue, in fact, that the armour is ideological in addition to literal, philosophical safety, the notion of being appropriately attired, and likewise garments with the care and a spotlight of others. The craft in these garments – embroideries, appliqués, laces – had been expressive of the care embedded in the most effective trend. “This assortment is about discovering magnificence all over the place,” says Miuccia Prada. Can there be a nobler goal?