Roksanda Ilinčić on the “Unbelievable Magnificence” of Brutalist Buildings
This text is taken from the Autumn/Winter 2022 difficulty of AnOther Journal:
“I used to be visiting [Brazil’s capital] Brasília, town Oscar Niemeyer designed, and went right into a brutalist church with unimaginable blue stained-glass home windows. I occurred to be there by myself and that second will stick with me for the remainder of my life. There’s something about brutalism that speaks to me and it’s presumably nostalgia for again dwelling [in Serbia]. In Belgrade we now have this a part of city referred to as New Belgrade that, once we had been rising up, all of us disliked very a lot. It’s constructed with the identical rules Le Corbusier was utilizing on the time. To me as a teen it didn’t look notably interesting, however as time passes and also you mature as an individual – and the world matures in a sure means – you realise that there’s unimaginable magnificence in these buildings. Le Corbusier’s buildings at all times had a social facet – lovely however sensible, practical areas that wouldn’t price a lot, that many individuals may use. This was after the second world struggle, when individuals had been displaced from their properties. It’s an concept that I used to be introduced up with, in socialism – to assist different individuals with the intention to see society thriving as a complete.”
The idea of shelter is essential to Roksanda Ilinčić’s designs. “Once I create clothes it’s to not empower a girl, however to shelter and defend her,” she says. She began off finding out structure in Serbia earlier than altering tack and incomes an MA in womenswear from Central Saint Martins. Her model, Roksanda, which she launched in 2005 in London (the place she nonetheless lives and works) is thought for its graphic play on color and sculptural quantity. Ilinčić is fuelled by artistic collaboration – she has labored with the artists Eva Rothschild, Caroline Denervaud and Ella Kruglyanskaya – and her newest challenge is a set for Fila.
Hair: Sophie Jane Anderson at Future Rep. Make-up: Rebecca Davenport utilizing BYREDO. Photographic assistant: Jessica Pearson. Put up-production: She Put up Manufacturing. Printing: Moderne Lab
This story options within the Autumn/Winter 2022 difficulty of AnOther Journal, which is on sale internationally now. Purchase a duplicate right here.