Because the 12 months attracts to a detailed, the staff behind AnOther Journal mirror on their favorite vogue moments of the previous 12 months
Jordan Duddy, Junior Vogue Editor
“As an avid follower of Raf Simons’ work, the announcement that his eponymous label would shut was one in every of my main vogue moments of the 12 months. His work has pushed the boundaries of menswear and had a far-reaching influence, culturally talking. At present his exhibits from the late Nineteen Nineties and early 2000s are heralded as iconic menswear moments and are nonetheless broadly referenced. After 27 years, the model’s closure was large vogue information and a blow to followers. I used to be fortunate sufficient to see his ultimate present, a triumphant swansong that can go down within the vogue historical past books.”
Ted Stansfield, Editorial Director, AnOthermag.com
“My high vogue second of the 12 months was Bella Hadid having a gown sprayed onto her physique at Coperni, just because I’d by no means seen something prefer it earlier than. It jogged my memory of Shalom Harlow being equally sprayed, although by robots, at that McQueen present – for apparent causes. However the entire thing felt so new and progressive; I can’t even start to get my head across the know-how. And the gown really regarded good! It made sense that it was on Bella who’s, to not sound all Wendy Williams, the second.”
Katie Shillingford, Vogue Director
“In September, it felt very particular to be out doing all of the exhibits once more as a full staff, seeing all of the collections up shut and discussing and dissecting them afterwards. We particularly cherished seeing Loewe’s shiny purple Minnie Mouse footwear up shut and had a short encounter with Rei Kawakubo within the CDG showroom. We will do our jobs from afar, however it’s so way more significant once we expertise the collections in particular person. So I might say my greatest vogue second of this season was being a staff collectively at vogue weeks.”
Alexander Fury, Vogue Options Director
“As ever, it’s troublesome to condense a vogue 12 months to a single second – particularly given how multi-faceted (or maybe fragmented) vogue feels in the meanwhile. So I’ve three … or possibly 5, if we break one in every of them aside. The connection between all of them, for me, is a hyperlink to historical past – not a basic historical past, however my very own very explicit recollections of vogue. As a toddler of the Nineteen Nineties, an apparent vogue second for me was the long-awaited return of Linda Evangelista to the catwalk, courtesy of Kim Jones and Marc Jacobs at Fendi’s September present in New York. I like many fashions – Shalom! Naomi! Kate! – however Linda has all the time been my favorite, from the Too Funky video [by George Michael] to her star flip in Isaac Mizrahi’s Autumn/Winter 1994 present, captured in Unzipped (Linda’s rant about lints and her epic side-eye is a staggering work of unparalleled genius). So to see her prowl in a Tiffany blue silk cape-coat, cracking that million-watt grin, took me proper again to why I fell in love with vogue within the first place.
“One other hyperlink again was the trinity of exhibits Antony Vaccarello staged for Saint Laurent: his menswear in July, and people February and September exhibits in entrance of the Eiffel Tower, a venue now inextricably linked with Saint Laurent. And proudly owning a landmark like that may be a fuck-you energy transfer straight out of the Pierre Berge playbook. Bear in mind these YSL fragrance adverts for ‘Paris’ whirring across the tower’s apex? Once more, proper out of my childhood. Vaccarello’s two Saint Laurent womenswear exhibits this season had been extraordinary for the ability of the ladies they depicted, alongside the energy of the garments – wide-shouldered tailoring, slender hooded attire, slipper-satin bias-cut night robes, and tiny particulars, just like the heft of a cuff, the décolletage of a silk shoe, or the proper denier of sheer black tights. They spoke about magnificence and class in a approach we haven’t seen for years. Add to that the outstanding menswear present staged within the desert exterior of Marrakech – true Saint Laurent nation – and the gender-blurring élan of that assortment’s tailoring, the slip-streaming of items from menswear, to womenswear, and again once more, and this 12 months demonstrated Vaccarello’s virtuoso grasp on one of many trickiest legacies in vogue historical past. It’s one near my coronary heart, and I like what he’s doing.
“Love leads us to Valentino – and to my ultimate alternative, Pierpaolo Piccioli’s couture present staged on the Spanish Steps in Rome in July. It was an event the place I really feel not solely privileged to do what I do, however pause in a second of slight disbelief that I’m really there witnessing it in any respect. If I ever get blasé or cynical about this job, moments like that knock it out of you want a suckerpunch. All through the course of this 12 months I had the enjoyment of working alongside Pierpaolo on the exhibition Endlessly Valentino – and to see his thoughts and eye impressed by the archives we had been pawing by way of, with such affection and respect, was extremely emotional. This wasn’t an homage to Mr Valentino’s work, however it appeared a love-letter to his life, his adoration of ladies and of magnificence, which was right here all of the extra outstanding as a result of, somewhat than a static reflection, it was an evolution, a development. It vibrated with emotion, in each sew – the emotion of the founder, of its new creator, and of the seamstresses who sewed all of it collectively. Briefly, it completely blew me away. And that’s all the time my measure of nice vogue. Fortunately, it nonetheless occurs a lot.”
Dominique Sisley, Senior Editor, AnOthermag.com
“‘Isn’t it the case that with every new outfit, Rihanna erects a monument, sends out a flare and lights up group texts?’ These phrases, from Durga Chew Bose’s Dazed cowl story in September 2021, would show to be notably pertinent only a few months later. The singer’s being pregnant announcement felt like the primary large vogue second of 2022: a dramatic thunderbolt of glowing metals and electrical pink, breaking apart the gray monotony of January. The references felt biblical, with Rihanna strolling alongside the overcast streets of Paris like a modern-day Virgin Madonna – her hair tousled, her expression serene, and her bump adorned with opulent classic jewels from Dior and LaCroix. And to complete it off with a simple Autumn/Winter 1996 Chanel puffer and a few ripped denims? Reward be to God, the flare was lit.”
Ellie Grace Cumming, Vogue Director
“My favorite vogue second of 2022 was engaged on (styling) the Dior Males’s Fall present in December in Cairo. It was an unbelievable expertise with a solid of 75 fashions celebrating 75 years of Dior, with a set of the Nice Pyramids of Giza, a soundtrack scored by Jeff Mills, and essentially the most stunning assortment designed by Kim Jones. It was a dream to be a part of – not many vogue moments occur on one of many seven wonders of the world! After the present finale had completed, Max Richter performed his good The 4 Seasons with a stay orchestra and a laser gentle present; there have been many tears, it was a legendary second.”
Sophie Bew, Editor
“John Galliano’s Cinema Inferno – a theatre-production-cum-film-cum-runway-show for Maison Margiela Artisanal Autumn/Winter 2022 in July, earlier this 12 months – was a feat of genre-blurring magnificence. The Andrew Wyeth panorama, the campy appearing, the ruby slippers, latex caps and foam cowboy hats supplied a technicolour feast to ceremony-starved viewers. The couture volumes, humongous again bows, plumed veiled masks and surgical scrubs: it was delectable and a bit bonkers. A welcome reminder that there’s nonetheless a lot new floor for vogue to interrupt.”
George Pistachio, Social Media Editor, AnOthermag.com
“I really feel as if the period of the film star is returning. This 12 months has introduced such nice cinema – each arthouse and mainstream – and the awards ceremonies have felt extra buzzy than ever. So when Nicole Kidman arrived on the catwalk for Balenciaga’s 51st couture present, trying red-carpet-ready as ever, it simply appeared to make sense. From Moulin Rouge to The Portrait of a Girl, Kidman and her taut brow are fully unforgettable, and now her seductive swaggering by way of Balenciaga’s Parisian salon is now ingrained in my reminiscence.”
Rebecca Perlmutar, Vogue Editor
“Nothing will high my first Junya Watanabe present throughout Paris Vogue Week. Beginning off what our staff has dubbed ‘Comme Day’ – the Saturday of vogue week when Junya Watanabe, Noir Kei Ninomiya and Comme des Garçons all present (aka the perfect day) – this explicit Junya present left me feeling exceptionally fortunate that I get to do what I do. The present was a nod to the youth of London’s Eighties New Romantic subculture, and from the primary beat of Duran Duran’s Ladies on Movie, when two fashions walked out concurrently at simply the best second, you had been taken there. To expertise it in particular person was simply so good.”
Violet Conroy, Options Editor, AnOthermag.com
“Possibly it’s a cop-out to decide on a movie, however my favorite vogue second of the 12 months was in Joanna Hogg’s The Memento Half II. Within the earlier saga, The Memento – which follows a younger movie scholar in Eighties London who falls in love for the primary time whereas concurrently grappling to seek out her creative voice – the protagonist Julie (performed by Honor Swinton Byrne) is naive in frumpy pink cardigans, ill-fitting shirts and pumps; an inescapable maker of her higher center class, conventional upbringing within the British countryside.
“Within the second movie, after experiencing alternating tides of affection and grief, Julie emerges as a classy and confident younger artist in Vivienne Westwood, boxy Yohji Yamamoto fits and one high-powered celebration look – slicked again hair and a one-shouldered black minidress – that appear to channel her burgeoning sense of sexuality. Each movies are autobiographical nearly to the bone, with Hogg lending a lot of her personal previous garments on display; The Memento Half II is a reminder that the garments we put on inform a unconscious story about who we’re (flaws and all), evolving and maturing in tandem with age and confidence.”
