Why Louis Vuitton’s Males’s Present Was an Train in Connectivity
Lead PictureCourtesy of Louis Vuitton
Collectivity and connectivity. For the reason that dying of Virgil Abloh in November 2021, Louis Vuitton’s menswear collections have been group workouts in collaboration, each between the members of the home’s design group themselves, and a collection of outdoors artists and creatives who want, in some form or kind, to pay homage to Abloh’s legacy and affect.
However for Autumn/Winter 2023, the notion of the collective was the literal crux of the gathering – a neat response to the truth that Vuitton is but to announce a successor to Abloh, virtually 18 months after his passing. Honest sufficient actually: his are mighty large sneakers to fill. And certainly, Abloh himself adored collaboration, pulling in a bunch of various skills to enhance his personal visions for Vuitton. For a home obsessive about journey, that skirting between concepts grew to become a brand new signature innately tied to the character of the model.
So, very a lot in the identical vein, as a substitute of anchoring the season to a single inventive imaginative and prescient, for Autumn/Winter 2023 Vuitton continued to bounce concepts with a bunch of companions, together with home stalwarts similar to stylist Ib Kamara and inventive director Lina Kutsovskaya, and new recruits together with Spanish singer Rosalía, the American designer Colm Dillane of KidSuper, and French filmmakers Michel Gondry and Olivier Gondry. All labored on disparate but parallel facets: the Gondrys directed a movie and devised the present’s set, of a blown-apart suburban residence as an allegory for a person’s coming-of-age; Dillane devised clothes the home described as ‘digital footprints’, with patterns fashioned from fragments of letters written by Vuitton’s studio palms, in varied languages, or crafted to create faces staring out from items; and Rosalía, fairly naturally, mounted a automotive and belted out some songs in the course of the course of the present.
Connection was the principle concept – not solely the connection between the inventive events enjoying their visions out on the stage of Vuitton’s catwalk within the Louvre’s courtyard, however the subsequent reference to hundreds of thousands world wide. It was a neat concept, given Abloh’s undoubted connection to multitudes, and the attain of Vuitton itself as a model. It acknowledged trend’s energy as a instrument of communication, whereas additionally harnessing the facility of others – the crowds thronging the outside, youngsters skipping college and bringing site visitors to a standstill of their clamour to see attendees and performers, had been ample testomony. Had been they followers of Rosalía or followers of Vuitton? Couldn’t they be one and the identical? Particularly right now, when trend manufacturers like Louis Vuitton are related intrinsically to well-liked tradition, objects of fandom and obsession similar to pop icons.
Therefore the truth that the coming-of-age story felt particularly pertinent – underscoring your first nascent grownup connection to the world you want to be a part of. And because the fashions padded by means of recreations of suburban bedrooms in artfully topsy-turvy tailoring – like youngsters enjoying dress-up in grown-up garments, actually – the notion of hundreds of thousands of different youngsters watching and anticipating taking part in that world had a strong draw. That’s the connectivity that actually powers trend.